I am very honest about my future intentions to live in Italy, and Tuscany would be my top pick of locations. The landscape is breath taking, the people are warm and friendly,the food speaks for itself, and it is a nice central location to visit many other beautiful parts of Italy from.
After my last trip to Italy, and the wine tour I went on, I knew that I must go back to Tuscany, for more than just a day. I knew that we could rent a villa, but when I started searching, I discovered that there are 100’s of choices. My criteria for searching was as follows: allow a 4 night rental (most had a 1 week min.), a pool, air conditioning, close proximity to Florence and/or Siena and in our budget. Well, without a doubt, the Universe made sure that we chose the perfect place to stay in Tuscany. Agriturismo San Fabiano, owned by Philipo and Rachel.
We took the train from Monterosso to Pisa, and spent 4ish hot hours there, and once we arrived in Sienna, we were all excited to get to our villa and jump in the awaiting pool. But first we had to figure out how to get there. I was only given driving instructions for how to get to our villa, and I knew there were buses, but I was not confident after asking at the train station, and finding out there is a train to our town- UGH (wish I would have know that before then), how to get to our villa that we would get there ‘easily’ so we jumped in a taxi hoping that we would not be taken for a ‘ride’ and get there in a fair amount of time for a fair price. As much as I love Italy, and its people, a lot of taxi drivers don’t have the best reputations. They can be maniacs, and drive like Mario Andretti would have on the race track as we discovered in Rome, overcharge regularly, and passionately swear at their passengers, and everyone on the street as they listen to their football team not play well in a soccer match on the radio. Luckily with the driving instructions- in Italian and English, I could figure out where we were, and as luck would have it, we ended up in an honest taxi driver’s taxi and he delivered us in around 30 minutes and charged us E35. Not bad.
I must say that I was all smiles as we drove into the Tuscan countryside. It was very dry from the drought that they were currently experiencing, but everything else was as I had remembered and thought it would be. Rolling hills, Cypress trees, farm land, Villas and Castles. Oh my, how I love it here!
We arrived at our Villa, and were warmly greeted by both Rachel and Philipo. While Philipo gave us a tour of the Villa, little Rachel carried our bags up to our apartment. I immediately felt at home- maybe from the tour from Philipo in his ‘pink’ bathrobe, or from the many games and activities outside for families, the other families outside at the pool, and one with a puppy, or from the ‘lived in’ office next to their entryway. I am not sure, but we all were happy to be there.
After swimming, Philipo and David took us into town the evening before so that he could show us the town, and also so that we could pick up some groceries. Surprisingly we cooked that night! We had pasta with pesto, bread, meat and cheese, and a salad from the local grocer. I must say that this was the 1 and only meal that we cooked in our 23 days away from home. Kim and I ‘cooked’ and the kids cleaned up, then we broke into the gelato we bought from the local gelato store. MMMMMM….
Our first morning we decided to sleep in, and just chill so that we could enjoy our surroundings. I asked Philipo the history of the Villa, and he proceeded to take us outside, sat us down and told us many stories of his family and how he and Rachel met, and came to take over the abandoned farm house, completely renovate it (renovate is a small word for the HUGE job it was to get it to where it is today) and now live in this lovely Villa, and rent out their apartments. To make his long story short, his stories and his family history is Amazing! I will try to retell it as best as I can… He was raised in Rome, and his father was a Count! He came from a very important family that owned a factory that made large equipment (Kim loved that!), and one day when he was young, his father took him to Tuscany to show him all the land he had purchased for the ‘rich mans game’ of pheasant hunting. All of this land was turned into farm land, and MANY years ago they had 500+ heads of cattle, and 5000 chickens, in addition to the land they farmed. Many farmers were hired to farm the land, which is why the landscape is lined with many farm houses like our Villa. His father then built himself a castle, which is still in the family; Philipo’s brother owns it, and we could see it from our Villa.
In 1970’s the laws in Italy were changed so that the owner of the farmland and the farmer no longer had a 50/50 split of the profits (0 if there were losses that year), and the owners, like Philipo’s father had to pay wages, and benefits to all the farmers. This caused much dissension for the owners that lived far from their land, and the owners stopped farming the land for many reasons, including when the cat is away the mouse will play attitude adopted by some of the farmers, once the farmers were no longer invested in working hard for good crops with the loss of the 50/50 split. The farmers then moved on, and abandoned their homes. This is why you see many still abandoned farm houses in the Tuscan countryside. This is also where Philipo acquired his farm house, as it was one of many on his father’s land, and transformed it into what it is today. Philipo’s English is Amazingly polished, as he traveled the world as a mechanical engineer before he married Rachel, and let me tell you he has many more stories about his travels. We so enjoyed his company! Rachel is equally as nice as Philipo, however with the extreme heat outside, we did not see her as much as the carefree Philipo.
I know that we will be back to San Fabiano, but next time we will definitely rent a car so that we can explore more of the Tuscan countryside, visit the many wineries, and explore the other towns. There is something said for independence with your own car.
In my next blog post, I will tell you all about our day with Philipo and David when they took us exploring, as well as our adventure to Siena.