After a nice siesta at our hotel we walked to Montmartre which was within walking distance of our hotel. Techically anything within around 30 minutes is walking distance we have discovered in France. It is so different from home, but so good for us. Plus there is always so much to see along the way that the walk is always interesting.
One thing Kalyna said that she wanted to do in France (she just informed me of this in Paris) was to have a Fondu one night. Cheese? Sure, why not! And since there was a recommended Fondu restaurant in the Montmartre area, we were able to combine things from our to do lists.
This area is a unique part of Paris, as it suddenly becomes hilly, like in San Francisco, which you then know that you are headed in the right direction, especially since NOTHING is symetrical in Paris, including the streets. Sacré-Coeur is up on a hill (that the Parisians call a Mountain???) which overlooks Paris. The view is stunning, and the people watching is a great sport if you have time to sit on the steps. There are ample guys there selling water, and even Heineken by the bottle while you sit on the steps beneath the Cathedral if you did not come prepared.
(Check back later as I have some great photos to put here, but I can NOTdownload them onto my tablet as someone changed my camera setting from JPEG to NEF, and do not have the bandwidth to change all of my 1000 pics with limited wifi- NOAH……)
The one thing you need to watch out for are the men from Africa- I am unsure of where in Africa, so I apoligize that I generalized; Africa. There are numerous of these men and they are agressive! They are all holding unfinished string bracelets in their hands and they have no sense of personal space or boundaries, and can make you feel unsafe. They initially approach you and ask you where you are from- ignore them and say No Merci (thank you). They then try to put a bracelet on you- firmly say, No Merci! Walk away, and keep walking past the rest of them that will continue approaching and will keep talking to you. Some tourists just end up giving them money to get them to go away, and that does not help. Some use this as a distraction to pick pocket, but really they are looking for money. As you walk away annoyed they will say, &Don’t worry, be happy!& Ironic as we were perfectly happy until they harrased us!
We were both starving so we made our way to Le Refuges des Fondus using my Ulmon map app on my phone. What did we ever do without a GPS in our hands at all times???
Refuges des Fondus is a popular restaurant as there were several people waiting outside. I spied that there were baby bottles on each table and after saying, &Why the heck are there baby bottles on the tables, a young group of American women who were going to school in Paris explained that they serve the wine in baby bottles as it is so cramped in the restaurant that this prevents wine spillage. So smart!!! Plus this was a part of the unpretencious charm this restaurant had. When the owner came to tell us that there was a table ready, there was another couple also waiting, and as the 4 of us were polite we all looked at each other not knowing who should get the table, as we were usure who got there first we ended up sitting together at the same table and even split and shared a beef and cheese fondu. They were in town for an HIV conference- Alex was from London and Alesia was from Italy, but worked as a Physician in the UK. We had such a lovely dinner with them, and just in case you were wondering what I ate with the cheese fondu- they gave me potatoes! The meal cost €25 per person, and incuded a glass of Kir, an apertivo plate, 1 type of fondus per couple, 1 baby bottle of red or white wine, and desert, which also was gluten free- a home made marshmallow with a caremel sauce drizzled on it. OMG! YUM!
The next best part of eating at Le Refuges is the experience. It is family seating- against the wall is a bench, and in order to get in and out unless you are at the end of the bench is to climb over your table. It is definetely close seating, so you get to know your neighbors, which I loved!
Before walking home, I needed to take Kalyna to see Moulin Rouge and its famous red windmill. Funny that this was my 3rd time to Paris, and I also had not seen this iconi Parisian landmark. Moulin Rouge use d to be a hip place to go in Paris, but as we walked towards the windmill, it started to feel more and more seedy. We both said we saw Moulin Rouge and quickly left as the &good time& that we could have found there was not &our kind of good time& if you know what I mean.
Instead of walking home through this crazy neighbourhood, we took the nearest Metro, and that is where we had a @subwaycreatures experience! I follow @subwaycreatures on Instagram (follow me t_tymko) and get easily amused, disgusted and totally grossed out at what happens in the subway in New York. We were quietly sitting at a seat waiting for our train, when a homeless? man, who either had mental issues or was totally drunk, approached me and proceeded to point his finger at me and said, &T’es moche! Dégolasse! Molle!& He also said a lot more, but he was talking fast and it was slurred, but this was the general idea of what he said to me, as he was actually pointing at my right leg, which had some scratches on it. I had no idea what he said, and I just said back, &Je parle en englais- I speak english& He repeated himself, and I said the same thing back. He looked at me confused then luckily the train arrived and we quickly walked a couple of cars away from where he was to get away from him. Kalyna then told me what she thought he said to me- &I was disgusting, stupid and gross (dégolas) At first Kalyna thought moche was mushy, and apparantly he didn’t like my calves. We didn’t know if we should laugh as we were just very confused. I did howerever text my Subway Creature friend- LIndsey to tell her about my encounter, then as we were walking out of the Metro, we saw a Dispicable Me poster with the Minions on it, where is said, &Moi, Moche et Méchant 2& So was I also Dispicable since he called me Moche? We laughed at the coincidence!
Our first full day in Paris was full and Great!