It would be rare that I do not take the advice of my good friend Corinne, who is an expert about travelling in France (at least I think she is), so when she told me that we MUST stay 1 night on Le Mont St. Michel, I booked a room for just 1 night.
We bought a return ticket from Saint Malo on the direct bus to Mont St. Michel for €23 each. Our other option was to take 2 trains and 1 bus and the cost wasn’t much cheaper for the inconvenience. The bus company, Keolis is obviously selling day trips to tourists rather than transportation to destinations. I sucked it up as I looked at it that we paid more for the convenience and it also saved us some time.
The bus dropped us off at one of the bus parking lots, which was not yet full of tour buses, so it looked like we had a bit of a head start to avoiding the crowds; or so we thought. Instead of waiting in another long line up for a free bus/ shuttle ride to the island, we walked the boardwalk, which was farther than I thought- just over 2 km. It was nice to be able to stop and take pictures along the way, but we were definetly a sight to see or hear as the wheels on our luggage made a not so pleasant noise on the wood boardwalk. Whatever….
The tide had already started to receed away from the island and back out to sea, when we arrived, and the amount of water that moves in and out here was evident. We had no idea at the time that we would not see the tide coming in fully, which was a shame. I still do not understand why that was as the posted high tide was at 11:26 am and 11:38 pm.
We arrived at the gates of Le Mont St. Michel and immediately we felt like we were in Medieval times- a bit reminiscent of Carcasonne, and one of the walled cities we visited in Provence in 2012. We thought we beat the crowds, but we did not. Navigating the narrow and winding street in the thick crowds of tourists to find our hotel while pulling our luggage was a bit of a challenge as the walk towards our hotel was also uphill. The check in at our hotel La Vielle Augerge was in its restaurant. Our room would not be ready until 2pm, so we left our bags and had lunch on their terrace as the weather was starting to improve and the sun was peaking out.
After a delicious lunch of a NIcoise Salad- a typical french dish, that is absolutely delicious, we started to explore the outer perimeter on the wall. As we walked around we found our way to the Abbey thought to date back to 708- originally built as a sanctuary by Aubert, Bishop of Avranches in honour of the Archangel. &In the 10th century, the Benedictines settled in the abbey, while a village grew up below its walls.& Clasified as a historic monument in 1874, it underwent major restoration work, and has been under construction- literally ever since!
The abbey was unfurnished except for the Chapel which had a service on when we were there, so you had to leave a lot up to your imagination as to what the furnishings, etc would have been like. Luckily we are Game of Throne fans, so we were able to fill in the blanks from its set design.
The island itself is quite small, so we explored all that we were able to in a couple of hours, and by the time we were back on the narrow street lined with tourist shops and restaurants, it was literally wall to wall- packed in like sardines with tourists. I was glad that we were staying the night, as we would be able to walk around soon enough without these impossible crowds.
We checked into our room and while waiting for it to be ready, not long after we met a couple from a small town north of where we live- Killam, AB. Heather and Roger were driving through France in just under a month and we were going to be crossing paths with them in a few different places, so we arranged to meet up at our next stop- Amboise to have some english conversation with someone other than our travel partners.
I had upgraded our room when booking to a sea view room, and was extremely pleased with this decision, as we needed to escape the crowds, and could still take in the landscape’s beauty from the comfort of our balcony; minus the loud and obnoxious sea gulls… BUT to get to our room we had to climb upwards of around 200 uneven stone steps with our bags, and then back down. And around 5 pm, I got the munchies and was in need of a happy hour cocktail. So back down the steps I went.
Around 5 pm the streets really start to quiet down as the tour buses are leaving, so a lot of the stores start to close as do many restaurants, so that basically the restaurants that also are hotels remain open for dinner service, and even these ones are closed and dark by 10 pm, which is early for France standards in the cities. Snack foods are slim pickings in Mont. St. Michel, but I found some french fries, which I can eat as in France most places only fry their fries, and not the majority of its menu like in Canada and the U.S., so they are gluten friendly. I also bought a sugar crepe for Kalyna and a small bottle of sparkling rose Cider, which is a local specialty, then back up the steps I went to enjoy my own little Happy Hour while enjoying the paid for view on our balcony. I started to eat my fries outside but we noticed quickly that I was attracting the attention of the sea gulls, and as we had been warned that they are very agressive here, I quickly moved inside with my snack and only had my drink outside while researching where Rick Steves would recommend us to have dinner.
We chose to eat at Cafe La Mère Poulard, not to be mistaken with La Mère Poulard, which is a rip off tourist trap right where you walk in the gates. I had already decided that I wanted mussles again as this would be our last night where they are caught then served only hours later- or so I thought. The service started off good, but then tapered off quickly which was becoming a very common experience for us in France. I am not sure if it is because there are more servers at home, or they are tip driven, but our experience was very lax to get you a menu, a 2nd glass of wine, or water when asked for politely. BUT, the food generally come out OMG fast! That said, the food was even slow at this restaurant, which would not have been a big deal, had I had something to drink while we waited. Please don’t get me wrong, I love to experience a lingering meal like in Italy, but this is NOT the same. Service basically has lacked so far for us.
Back to the room once again for us- Kalyna to face time her friends and me to get dressed warmer to go and take pictures of Mont. St. Michel illuminated from outside its walls. I was also wanting to see the tide coming in, and with it being just after 10 pm, it should have started.
The streets were even more quiet and all of the restaurants were officially closed. The only ones left in the streets were us tourists, and most of us were headed in the same direction- to take pictures. I was surprised to see that the water was still far out at sea, and did not appear to be coming back in, in the 30 minutes that I was outside the walls. It was pitch black now and getting colder so I made my way back to our room to prepare for our earlyish departure the next morning.
I have learned from past experiences that it is better to be early than be too rushed when travelling. We got up with enough time to get ready, pack, walk with our bags down the 200+ steps, check out, have breakfast then walk to the shuttle, take the shuttle, find the bus stop and get on the bus to go to Rennes where we were renting a car. Our good intentions led us to be extremely early for the bus, as when we went to breakfast at our hotel restaurant, we discovered that the €10 breakfast was pastries, coffee and juice. I did not want to spend the equivalent of $15 for coffee and juice- and there were no apologies for being unacomodating. So we went up the street and stopped at the only to go place open, and ordered a coffee and a croissant for Kalyna, which came to €9! €6 for the coffee and €3 for the croissant!!! That is MORE than at Starbucks, which I did not think was possible! I guess we should have stayed and at least Kalyna could have had more than 1 croissant and juice too…..
We were happy to have seen M.S.M. but I was happy to be leaving as I HATE getting ripped off and tourist traps! My advice for you is if you stay or just go for the day- take snacks, food and drinks with you. If you have a gluten allergy, this is even more important when it comes to breakfast. AND stay away from La Mère Pollard- you can’t miss it when you first enter through the gates.
It was now afer 9am, and we had plenty of time to take the shuttle, and find our way to our bus to Rennes. But again, the tide was out at sea, with no sign of it coming in. I was disappointed to not have seen this transition, as it was incredible to watch in Saint Malo. Oh well- You Tube will have to suffice…
Off to Rennes, and our driving adventures in the Loire!