Re posted from Once in a Lifetime Travel.
Re posted from Once in a Lifetime Travel.
I am a bit out of order for my posts, but I have had Naples on my brain this week, and I must first do some sharing about our trip to Naples, then I can go back to the order of our trip. I must also say how thankful I am that I blogged a good portion of our trip while we were still traveling. I have found that since we got home, that my “normal” life gets priority to my travel blogging… But Today, I MUST write about Naples!
How and why we went to Naples for part of a day: We as a family decided when planning our trip, that we all wanted to visit Pompeii as a day trip from Rome. The high speed train took us from Roma to Napoli, then to Pompeii, and for the return I booked our train tickets so that we had 4+ hours in Naples for 1 reason- PIZZA!
Is pizza all the same in Italy? NO!!!!! Just like eating pizza at home from places like (YUK) Pizza Hut, Dominos, or even at a nice Italian restaurant, they will all be different in size, shape, and taste. BUT, the one thing that I love about eating pizza in Italy is that you are in Italy, eating ‘real’ pizza. So when being so close to the birth place of pizza and not go to one of two restaurants that have been making pizza for decades, we had to make it work to stay for just long enough to experience the real thing. And as I write this, my mouth is watering thinking about THAT PIZZA! OH MY!!!
MY GOAL: To eat pizza at the following original Pizzerias!
At the train station we found the TI to get precise directions for how to walk to both of the original Pizzerias- Pizzeria da Michele, and Pizzeria Trianon. What I did not realize was that da Michele had become widely popular to even more tourists since the book and movie, Eat, Pray, Love because this is where Elizabeth Gilbert went to eat pizza for the day. How I did not clue into this is beyond me, because I have read the book twice, and have also seen the movie. We were warned that it might be very busy, so on the way as I held my purse as close to my body as I could we discussed our plan of attack on these restaurants. Our plan was that we would eat first at the restaurant with the shortest line, then we would go to the next one after. But one other deciding factor that ultimately helped us to decide where to eat first was that Trianon had air conditioning, which was welcomed by us all after a day in the sweltering heat at Pompeii. Luckily Trianon had no line up, and da Michele did, and it was not even open yet.
Oh my! Instead of each of us choosing our own pizza, the kids each chose one, and Kim and I decided to share so that we could save some room for more pizza across the street at da Michele. After we ordered and were taking in the simple yet, thankfully cool atmosphere, I went over to the also simple pizza kitchen to take some pictures. What I was not expecting was being welcomed into the kitchen to not only take pictures but really be a part of our pizzas being made and cooked. Follow the pictures to see the simple process from dough ball, to table process.
AHHHH…. Is how we all felt after finishing our cold beer, Fanta (Noah), and our Amazing Pizza. BUT, could we find any room in our stomachs for more pizza at da Michele?! Unfortunately no. We were stuffed! Plus, this is what it looked like outside of da Michele.
So off we went back on our journey back to the train station. Why I call it a journey is because, Naples is hmmm, how do I describe it but a little crazy. On our way to find our pizzerias, we were stopped by someone on the street selling Ipads (most likely stolen), we saw many, many people selling knock off items like bags, watches, jewellery, etc on the street, and guys trying to make money washing windows for the cars stopped at red lights. The traffic was crazy, there was a tonne of graffiti and vandalism, and you could see the poverty everywhere. Naples was very different from any other Italian city I have been to, and not a place that was telling me to stay for more than just a pizza.
I must tell you that we received many warnings from Italians about going to Naples. We were told to not wear any jewellery, including watches, there are pick pockets everywhere, and to be careful in general. Filipo told us that many people, including motorists get their watches stolen when stopped at red lights. Whether the watch is on your left wrist, and your arm is resting on the side window, rolled down, it can be stolen. Or for those that have clued into this, and wear their watch on their right wrist, the thieves then burn the left arm resting on the window sill with a cigarette, and when you go to swap the hurt, they steal the watch from your right wrist while swapping what is hurting you. Crazy! So, as Jordan bought a watch from a man on the street selling a variety of watches, we thought of Filipo’s stories of watches being stolen… We were nervously cautious as we walked to and from the train station. We walked with intention when crossing the streets like we were told to, and we made it back to the train station, so that I could do some shopping. Yes, you heard me correct! They had some great stores that I had been waiting to find in Rome, and hadn’t yet, so with the extra time budgeted for the 2nd pizzeria, I did some greatly anticipated shopping. And once again I found myself saying AHHHHH!!!!!
On our first whole day in Tuscany, we decided to go check out Siena. I was very curious about Siena because Siena is compared a lot to Florence (my favourite), and it is a favourite city to many. We took the bus from the town of Monteroni D’Arbia, which took approx 30 minutes to get to our stop, which luckily in my broken Italian asked a woman on the bus,who spoke no English where to get off, and it was the very next stop (something Francisco). Between what she said and her charades, we got off at the right stop, and found our way to the center of Siena, Il Campo.
Siena is famous for Palio, which is a bareback horse race that happens twice a year- July and August. There are 17 neighborhoods, or Contrade in Siena, each with their own parish church, well or fountain, mascot, and unique colors as you can see in their flag. Out of the 17 neighborhoods, 10 compete in this medieval horse race, which gives the Contrade winner bragging rights for a year as well as a Palio banner made by a local artist for each race. This race is a HUGE deal in Siena, and it is apparent throughout the city. The square is packed with up to 60,000 people on race day, and explaining this to the kids was difficult until we showed them pictures of the square filled to the brim.
One of my highlights from many places I have been is usually at the top of a tower and being able to take in the view of the city or town I am at, so we waited in the line (that did not move for 30 mins), to be able to climb up the City Tower. It was definitely an amazing view. I must show you though, what you can not be in order to climb up the stairs…
So, we made it up to the top of the Tower, and even though all the kids did not necessarily want to go up, they were glad they did. Now it was time to find the Torture Museum! Yes, you heard me right, the Torture Museum was on Jordan and Noah’s wish list. One thing that I really like in Italy is that in every town there is a TI- Tourist Information, and they always speak English, and they usually know where most things are, excluding the coveted coins Kalyna started collecting.
While at the Torture Museum, Kalyna, Kim and I decided to have a bite to eat while we waited. I was of course eager to check out the area and see how the shopping compared to Florence. While I was walking the streets looking for some shops, something caught my eye- a guy with a tripod, then another guy caught my eye. I did a double take, and can you believe it, but it was Rick Steves! Now if you do not know who he is, then either you don’t travel, you don’t do any research before you travel, or you live under a rock. Rick Steves has literally helped me travel through Europe with his books, and now I was about to be face to face with him, or I hoped!
So, here is how it played out: I saw him, started following him, pretending that I was taking pictures with my phone, because can you believe it, but the battery in my camera died! I was playing it cool, and getting candid shots of him talking to his crew for what they were going to be filming for one of his shows. COOL! Finally he stopped long enough for me to ‘cooly’ catch up and I asked one of his guys if he would mind it if I said hi. He told me that he was working, but to say hi anyways, and of course I did. I said to him, “Thank you so much for helping me to travel through Europe with your books!” He thanked me, sincerely, and was off. UGH! I wanted a picture with him, but I could not keep following him, at the risk of Kim and the kids not knowing where I was, and losing them. Luckily Kalyna was there, so I told her to stay on the corner so that she could see me, and see if Kim came, and as luck would have it, Kim appeared out of nowhere with the boys. I quickly GRABBED my Rick Steves Italy book from Kim, and literally ran after Rick again. Yes, I had become a stalker! I went up to him again, and once he gave me permission to speak (he was working, and it was kind of rude for me to keep interrupting him), I asked him if I could get a picture of him with me and his book. He was happy to see me with his book, and was nice enough to say yes to a photo session with sweaty, and sticky me. Now that was COOL!
Off to the Duomo! I discovered that the shopping is nothing like Florence. There are some shops here, but nothing like the variety you find in Florence for clothes, shoes and leather, and the markets with the variety of goods, especially the scarves I wanted to buy. So we went to discover Siena’s Duomo. Well, I must say that it was Beautiful! The dark green (which looks black), white, and pink marble, along with the statues, was a piece of magnificent art! We all sat and admired its beauty!
Inside the Duomo (No flash was used in the making of these photos…) There are works of art by Michaelango and Bernini.
On the back side of the Duomo, we walked down some steep steps to the Baptistery. Kim, Kalyna and I went inside to look at the works of artists like Ghiberti and Donatello.
So, what did we think of Siena? We liked it, but the crowds of a city we didn’t like, but that is the nature of the beast when you visit in the summer months. I did not find the shopping as good as Florence, but Jordan did pick up a sweet pair of Geox shoes, and Kim bought a watch, and I found my mom a beautiful necklace. Hmmm, something is wrong with this picture! I will visit Siena again in the months when the streets will not be quite as crowded with tourists. Next time I will also have more time to just wander the streets getting lost, which can be half the fun of exploring. Sometimes you just might find a GIANT pizza!
Ciao Siena! Until next time!
I am very honest about my future intentions to live in Italy, and Tuscany would be my top pick of locations. The landscape is breath taking, the people are warm and friendly,the food speaks for itself, and it is a nice central location to visit many other beautiful parts of Italy from.
After my last trip to Italy, and the wine tour I went on, I knew that I must go back to Tuscany, for more than just a day. I knew that we could rent a villa, but when I started searching, I discovered that there are 100’s of choices. My criteria for searching was as follows: allow a 4 night rental (most had a 1 week min.), a pool, air conditioning, close proximity to Florence and/or Siena and in our budget. Well, without a doubt, the Universe made sure that we chose the perfect place to stay in Tuscany. Agriturismo San Fabiano, owned by Philipo and Rachel.
We took the train from Monterosso to Pisa, and spent 4ish hot hours there, and once we arrived in Sienna, we were all excited to get to our villa and jump in the awaiting pool. But first we had to figure out how to get there. I was only given driving instructions for how to get to our villa, and I knew there were buses, but I was not confident after asking at the train station, and finding out there is a train to our town- UGH (wish I would have know that before then), how to get to our villa that we would get there ‘easily’ so we jumped in a taxi hoping that we would not be taken for a ‘ride’ and get there in a fair amount of time for a fair price. As much as I love Italy, and its people, a lot of taxi drivers don’t have the best reputations. They can be maniacs, and drive like Mario Andretti would have on the race track as we discovered in Rome, overcharge regularly, and passionately swear at their passengers, and everyone on the street as they listen to their football team not play well in a soccer match on the radio. Luckily with the driving instructions- in Italian and English, I could figure out where we were, and as luck would have it, we ended up in an honest taxi driver’s taxi and he delivered us in around 30 minutes and charged us E35. Not bad.
I must say that I was all smiles as we drove into the Tuscan countryside. It was very dry from the drought that they were currently experiencing, but everything else was as I had remembered and thought it would be. Rolling hills, Cypress trees, farm land, Villas and Castles. Oh my, how I love it here!
We arrived at our Villa, and were warmly greeted by both Rachel and Philipo. While Philipo gave us a tour of the Villa, little Rachel carried our bags up to our apartment. I immediately felt at home- maybe from the tour from Philipo in his ‘pink’ bathrobe, or from the many games and activities outside for families, the other families outside at the pool, and one with a puppy, or from the ‘lived in’ office next to their entryway. I am not sure, but we all were happy to be there.
After swimming, Philipo and David took us into town the evening before so that he could show us the town, and also so that we could pick up some groceries. Surprisingly we cooked that night! We had pasta with pesto, bread, meat and cheese, and a salad from the local grocer. I must say that this was the 1 and only meal that we cooked in our 23 days away from home. Kim and I ‘cooked’ and the kids cleaned up, then we broke into the gelato we bought from the local gelato store. MMMMMM….
Our first morning we decided to sleep in, and just chill so that we could enjoy our surroundings. I asked Philipo the history of the Villa, and he proceeded to take us outside, sat us down and told us many stories of his family and how he and Rachel met, and came to take over the abandoned farm house, completely renovate it (renovate is a small word for the HUGE job it was to get it to where it is today) and now live in this lovely Villa, and rent out their apartments. To make his long story short, his stories and his family history is Amazing! I will try to retell it as best as I can… He was raised in Rome, and his father was a Count! He came from a very important family that owned a factory that made large equipment (Kim loved that!), and one day when he was young, his father took him to Tuscany to show him all the land he had purchased for the ‘rich mans game’ of pheasant hunting. All of this land was turned into farm land, and MANY years ago they had 500+ heads of cattle, and 5000 chickens, in addition to the land they farmed. Many farmers were hired to farm the land, which is why the landscape is lined with many farm houses like our Villa. His father then built himself a castle, which is still in the family; Philipo’s brother owns it, and we could see it from our Villa.
In 1970’s the laws in Italy were changed so that the owner of the farmland and the farmer no longer had a 50/50 split of the profits (0 if there were losses that year), and the owners, like Philipo’s father had to pay wages, and benefits to all the farmers. This caused much dissension for the owners that lived far from their land, and the owners stopped farming the land for many reasons, including when the cat is away the mouse will play attitude adopted by some of the farmers, once the farmers were no longer invested in working hard for good crops with the loss of the 50/50 split. The farmers then moved on, and abandoned their homes. This is why you see many still abandoned farm houses in the Tuscan countryside. This is also where Philipo acquired his farm house, as it was one of many on his father’s land, and transformed it into what it is today. Philipo’s English is Amazingly polished, as he traveled the world as a mechanical engineer before he married Rachel, and let me tell you he has many more stories about his travels. We so enjoyed his company! Rachel is equally as nice as Philipo, however with the extreme heat outside, we did not see her as much as the carefree Philipo.
I know that we will be back to San Fabiano, but next time we will definitely rent a car so that we can explore more of the Tuscan countryside, visit the many wineries, and explore the other towns. There is something said for independence with your own car.
In my next blog post, I will tell you all about our day with Philipo and David when they took us exploring, as well as our adventure to Siena.
We hesitatingly left Cinque Terre, but onward to the next adventure we went, armed with the most delicious foccacia and pesto in the world!
First stop- Pisa!
We arrived at Pisa Centrale at 11am, checked in our bags at luggage storage, and headed out to find the tower, which we were told was about a 30+ minute walk from the station.
Oh my, as we are walking I am seeing stores- stores to which I like to shop in like Motivi, Calzedonia, Tezenis, and more! You must remember that I have NOT shopped yet, and I LOVE to shop, especially in Italy! So luckily the boys reluctantly agreed to stop long enough for Kalyna and I to take a quick look in a few stores, and while we looked we also cooled down in the yummy air conditioned stores. We didn’t buy anything, with the knowledge that we will be passing along these stores again on our way back to the train station- yes!
As we walk to the Field of Miracles, we cross a bridge, called Ponte di Mezzo, and along with the shops we came across, Pisa is starting to remind me a bit of Florence , my favourite city in Italy but with wider streets . As we get closer, there are remnants of Roman ruins, and then we can see it- The Leaning Tower of Pisa. I am thrilled to be able to see this structure that needs no caption next to it for most. My first impression is that it is much smaller than I thought it would be. It is 8 stories tall and is definitely leaning.
We arrive at the tower, and immediately retreat to the shade to look at it. This heat is Crazy! While Kim and Jordan stay in the shade, Noah becomes our photographer, and captures Kalyna and I doing what every other tourist is doing, and has done in the past- takes a picture of trying to hold up the leaning tower. Yes we know how corny we are- part of the experience!
The field of Miracles, or Miracoli in Italian, you can see the Leaning Tower (the bell tower), the cathedral (Duomo), the Baptistery, the hospital (Museum of the Sinopias), and the Camposanto Cemetary, all of which you need an admission ticket to enter. We knew that you could climb to the top of the tower for E15, which we decided we did not want to do in the 40 degree heat. As we tried to enter into the Duomo, we discovered the need for a ticket, but when we saw we had to go WAY over THERE to buy the E5 ticket, so we simply looked from the outside in places with shade, or just quickly took pictures as we passed looking for shade.
It was hot, and we were done seeing the sights, so we decided to make our way back towards the train station to sit and eat and have some nice Cold drinks. But instead of going the way we came, a brilliant idea was presented to go a different way. After walking for too long in the heat along a busy street with nothing to look at but traffic, I became very irritated. I thought it was a plot to keep me away from my loved stores on the street that took us to the tower. UGH. We finally made it back to the street I wanted to be on in the first place, and found a small restaurant so that we could eat and drink, and cool off as much as you can without a.c. Then before we knew it, it was time to head back to the train station to collect our bags, and catch our train to Siena.
Next stop on our journey is Tuscany!
Cinque Terre, Tiamo!
This was my 2nd visit to C.T. My 1st one was in April, and I remember saying that I wondered what it would be like there in the summer. I also remember seeing restaurants like Ciak, who serves some of the most amazing looking seafood dishes, made by a man that looks like Popeye, with an animated personality in his kitchen, and thinking that my husband and kids would LOVE to eat there. So here it is August, and I am visiting Cinque Terre with the plan of taking my family to dine at Ciak, swim in the sea, hike the hikes I was unable to, and see all of the miracles that the locals in Monterosso and Vernazza performed from October until now.
I was excited beyond belief to arrive on the train in Monterosso. It was like I was there only days prior, as I got off the train and knew exactly where to go, which was a very nice feeling, rather than having to establish yourself in a new place once again.
We checked into our room, with one queen bed, 1 twin beside it, and 1 set of bunk beds, a small bathroom with 1 toilet, 1 bidet, and a shower. Our room also had a balcony with enough room for 4 chairs, and a small table to set our drinks on, and another window on the wall facing the beach so if there were ANY wind, we would get a cross breeze to cool off our room. There was no wind… Luckily though our room was cooler than ours in Carcasonne. Enough said.
Our first stop in C.T. was to share a few dishes at Gio, on the boardwalk, where Kathy and I had dined at many times in April last year, it was that good. We ordered the pesto gnocchi, pesto lasagna, and bruschetta, oh and of course I had a Spritz. The Spritz was great, but the rest of the food was a bit disappointing unfortunately. Our next stop was for gelatto, and then the old town to check out the flood damage and repairs.
As we passed through the tunnel that connect Fagina (new town) and the old town, I tried to explain to the kids once again the extent of the damage from the floods of water, mud and rocks that had swept through this small town, and buried part of it, in late October, but it is hard to visualize. We reached the old beach and it looked like it had in April. The overpass and underpasses that took us to the old town looked amazing. I was shocked at had I not known about the tragedy that struck this town only months earlier, I would have never known from how things looked.
What was different was how new many things were like the interior of the shops in the old town, the restaurants, and kitchens. They were all shiny and so modern.
Day 13: We hit the beach in the morning along with the locals and it was lovely to relax on a beach that had more sand than rocks. Also the water was less salty than in France. The beach we went to was under the Gigante, and it was chosen because it had a big rock in the water that Kalyna and Noah could jump and dive off of.
In the afternoon we took the train to Riomaggiore to explore the town, and show the kids, and Kim the real wonders of this area, which is how the homes are built into the rocks and cliffs over the sea, which Monterosso is not known for.
It was HOT,so no one was into too much exploring where there was not any shade for a reprieve from the intense heat. But I did somehow convince the troops to walk the Via dell ‘Amore high above the sea to Manarola. We saw the many huge Agave plants growing on the cliffs, jelly fish in the sea, and of course the many locks left by those in love as a symbol of their love.
Manarola was a place that Noah wanted to revisit because it had a HUGE rock that people were jumping off of- the next day’s plan.
Tonight, we must eat at Ciak!!! And YES, it was everything we thought it would be and more! Our BEST meal yet!!!
As a result of the floods in October, I found a blog belonging to a now friend of mine, Nicole. who lives in a city just outside the Cinque Terre, called La Spezia. http://culturalcomments.blogspot.it/ We have been in touch and I was able to meet her in Vernazza after our morning of hiking and cliff jumping armed with Ziploc bags to leave behind for Nicole. Can you believe you can not buy Ziploc bags in Italy! We had a great visit in the Piazza Marconi, and I know that is just the first of many visits for us.
It was interesting talking to Nicole and someone else we met through Nicole, Christian, who grew up in Vernazza and runs some rooms and apartments there. Nicole met her Italian husband in Vernazza, so between her and Christian we heard first hand some stories of the floods, after math and the rebuilding process that is still happening. The situation in Vernazza is quite sad and uplifting. As you walk own the main street they have blown up photos of the exact location you are standing in after the flood. In many pictures you can not see the door to the shop or restaurant because it is literally buried. What you see are the windows to the apartment 1 floor above the shop and dirt below it. It looks like the apartment is on the ground floor. That is how much they had to dig out to reclaim their lives. Plus EVERYTHING had to be replaced, including tables, chairs, ALL food, and retail items once they dug themselves and their neighbours out. So as I sat in the Piazza and looked around, I realized the extent of having to replace EVERYTHING. Every postcard, t-shirt, umbrella, towel, napkin, glass, cup, picture that I saw just at a quick glace was ALL new in every store and restaurant.
You have to understand also that this community received very little money from the government and then more money that was promised was not delivered because of the earthquake that happened in another part of Italy in June. Also if any of the residents had insurance, this was not covered because it was a natural disaster.
However, the uplifting part of this story is that a community that had become disfunctionally divided before the floods for several reasons had been brought together to rebuild and start from scratch together as a community. They are also still helping each other out financially where and when they can, through paying each others rent, etc.
I have to say that I was moved to tears when I stepped into their church, because I felt that I was a witness to the resilience of this community that all came together through their mourning, suffering, sweat and tears, and kept themselves grounded through their strong faith in God.
So, long story short about these communities. They still need help through donations and tourism. It is especially evident in Vernazza, as the Piazza or the restaurants were not full. We must tell everyone that they are open for business as they desperately need our tourism dollars. If you did not know about the flood, you could be there and honestly be oblivious to their needs, as they cleaned up and rebuilt so much for the tourists. But still in Vernazza alone, a hotel that has 30 rooms is not yet ready to reopen, and those potential guests help the rest of the businesses to survive now, and eventually thrive. Also there are other businesses still under construction, plus many residents unable to return to their homes.
For more information, go to:
http://www.savevernazza.com. and http://www.rebuildmonterosso.com
So, we survived the heat. We hiked, explored every town, swam in the ocean, jumped off rocks and such,drank Spritz, ate foccachia, pesto, and Amazing seafood at Ciak, and spent time just relaxing. And we survived getting caught in a tourist trap restaurant in Corniglia. Never eat at the first restaurant you see, and Always check the prices first… Believe it or not we had way over priced Horrible pasta in Italy. One bad experience out of 100’s of good actually made it comical.
Once again, Cinque Terre did not disappoint. Except when it was time to leave, there were tears in my eyes.
Until next time…
I wrote this post 3 days ago, and then had no internet for 3 days. So to try to not confuse you, we are currently in Tuscany- outside a small town, outside of Siena. Stay tuned for that post…
Nice is nice but I LOVED Ville Franche sur Mer! Oh la la!
I am writing this blog to fill time on the trains as we journey to Italy- my other home. I feel excited to be entering in to this part of our adventure. I actually could not sleep in anticipation of today. France was wonderful, but for some reason, I kept speaking french with an Italian accent, my kids kept telling me- and very annoyed at me for doing this. This was amusing to me.
We arrived in Nice first, with the view of the 2 tones of the oh so blue ocean. Ahhh…. Oh how I love being by the water! Nice is quite the sight for the eyes. There are white, yellow, peach, shale, rose colored buildings in the hills surrounding the sea. You can feel the money here, as there are Mercedes, BMW’s, Ferrari’s, Lambourghinis, Porches, and every other kind of luxury car available in Europe driving in the streets here. We drive along the boardwalk trying to find our way to Ville Franche sur Mer, and as we drive we find Nice’s port. Parked here are many sizes of Yachts, in addition to sail boats, fishing boats, ski boats, etc.
We continue to follow the sea, as we know that Ville Franche is next to Nice, and is also on the sea. As luck would have it, we follow the right windy road, and Hotel de la Darse appears just as we see the harbour. This is our home base for 2 days, and we are extremely happy to be here.
We have 2 rooms booked- 1 double with a sea view, and 1 triple with a garden view. It worked perfect for us. I could not have been happier to wake up in the morning to sit on our deck and have a nice cafe while admiring the Amazing view. The building is very old, but the rooms have all been updated, and are very lovely. I found out from the woman at the front desk that her husband was born on the 1st floor of this building and has been in his family for many years. I love stories like this. If only the walls could talk…
As soon as we arrived at our hotel we got our bathing suits on, and walked approx 10 minutes to the “busy beach” in the Old town. As Kalyna and Noah are my water babies, we did this first, and of course they had a blast in the water, while Kim and Jordan enjoyed the France beach views, that Noah was completely oblivious to. After spending a couple hours at the beach we walked back to the hotel, showered, and went for supper once again to the old city, as that is where Rick Steves had recommended a few restaurants. It is a neat town with many steps, curvy walk ways that lead to many restaurants, and shops. I am discovering that many of these beach towns on the Mediterranean are quite similar, just with their own personality. The history is especially appealing for me to learn about, because as you wander around you find spaces and places that were once used for one purpose, and are now for another. A good example of this was as we walked up and down the lanes in the old town, we came across a tunnel, and later I read that this tunnel was used during air raids in WW2.
The beaches here are rocky, so I had a very hard time walking without sandals, but it did not even hardly faze Kalyna and Noah. Note to self: next time bring water shoes. The busy beach has smaller rocks on that beach, where the beaches in Nice and by Ville Franche’s harbour had bigger rocks and stones for a beach. It had its pros and cons. Kim liked the rocks, because there was no sand to stick to you. However you needed something more than just a towel to pad the hardness of the rocks to sit comfortably. Our hotel was great, as they supplied us with beach towels, mats and umbrellas for the beach, so that was 1 less thing to think about.
Day 11: Today we must drive to Nice central train station to return our rental car full of fuel by 10am. Sounds easy…. The 15 minute drive took us 1 hour, and we had to stop twice for directions. Enough said? No, we returned the car to Hertz, and then they charged us a E70 drop off fee. Fine print… WTF, then move on.
We brought our beach gear to try out the Nice beaches after we dropped off our car and did a bit of exploring. The kids actually agreed to go see the Marc Chagall museum, but when I got directions from a TI (tourist information), we discovered that it was closed that day, so off we went to find the church that had the machine that sold the coveted medallions that Kalyna had started collecting in every town that sold them. It had become a part of our routine everywhere we went to find where the machines were. Then off to the beach where Kalyna and Noah played in the water, Jordan read his Kindle under the umbrella, Kim discovered how to get a code in a McDonald’s to use a toilet, and I sat on rocks close enough to the water to constantly get wet to cool off, and when done, needing to get all of the smaller rocks out of my bathing suit bottoms that the waves had directed them into.
Did we like Nice? I guess so, but I am not sure that I would want to stay there, when there are many other smaller and more quaint options close by so that you can do day trips to take in the sights and what looked like Amazing shopping. I say, looked like because we walked passed all of the stores I LOVE to shop at, but did not have the opportunity to stop because of the GRUMPY boys attitudes towards shopping. Don’t worry, I will sneak away at some point to feed my soul. This trip’s focus is not about my needs, but the needs of my family as a whole.
Our last night in France we went for a nice meal at le Cosmo, which was recommended by Rick Steves. As we took in the atmosphere and people watching, I noticed that a large percentage of the diners were locals. To me, this is an ideal experience. Not only did we eat wonderful food, but it was authentic enough that the locals dined there also. As I have said before, travelling to me is not supposed to be all touristy, but in addition to doing things like visiting the Eiffel Tower, but also trying to experience where you are like those that live there. It was clear that the locals like to go to the beach- check, eat out- check, and have fun- check, and love life- check!!!
Now we are off to Italy- first stop Monterosso, Cinque Terre for 3 nights. No a.c. so pray that we don’t need it!
Blessings, Trina, Kim, Jordan, Kalyna and Noah